Argue all you want, but Lollapalooza is a destination festival. The city of Chicago plays a central figure in the weekend’s festivities, whether you’re hitting up an aftershow or grabbing a beer at a local bar. Even if you don’t venture forward into the city’s concrete confines — or it’s diverse neighborhoods like Wicker Park, Lincoln Park, Logan Square, Ukrainian Village, etc. — it’s hard to ignore its top-rated skyline during any headlining set.
But really, you need to venture forward. There’s so much more to this city than just Uno’s Pizzeria, Garrett’s Popcorn, and snazzy lakeshore hotels. There’s a rich cultural history here, and you don’t have to look too hard to find it. In fact, there’s usually something worthwhile a couple blocks away — even if you’re downtown and all you can see is a Buca di Beppo and a PF Changs. You just have to look harder.
Before you strain your eyes, though, check out this suh-weet guide we put together. Between the ten or 15 of us who live here, we figure we know this place pretty well, so we decided to let you in on a few details. This includes everything from must-eats to must-sees to must-hangs. It’s only slightly comprehensive, actually.
“You’ve gotta try this.”
Brunch
Nellcôte - 833 W Randolph St. – A fancier way to start off the day, for sure. Seafood enthusiasts will freak out over the Lobster Hash, while Midwesterners will be at home with the Steak and Eggs. Bonus points go to the brave soul who starts the day off with Sunnyside-Up Egg Pizza or the breakfast-tinged Spaghetti.
Do-Rite Donuts – 50 W. Randolph St. - Hankering for a sweet pastry, but aching to stave off Dunkin’ Donuts? This joint stays true to their name, offering slab after slab of doughy goodness. Their mission: “We make our donuts in small batches, never more than 36 at a time.” We’re pretty sure Special Agent Dale Cooper would be at home here. (Note: The store will also have a booth within the festival, too.)
Bongo Room – 1152 S. Wabash Ave. - Get here early or risk spending your whole morning waiting for a table. In Chicago, though, that’s still the sure sign of a good meal, and once you’re seated, Bongo Room doesn’t disappoint. The sweet plates are indulgent and delicious, the savory ones downright awe-inspiring, and the coffee is very, very good.
Nookies - 1746 N. Wells St. - For a classic, stick-with-you-til-dinner breakfast, Nookies is the place. It features a fairly standard complement of tempting omelettes, big fruity pancakes, and sandwiches– but when you’re going to spend all day in the heat, jostling with strangers to glimpse Jack White, sometimes a big plate of comfort food first is just the armor your stomach needs.
Lavazza - 27 W. Washington St. – DAMN GOOD COFFEE.
Lou Mitchell’s - 565 W Jackson Blvd. – They’ve been around for 85 years, it’s one of those “must see” places, and they claim to have the best coffee and breakfast in the planet. Given their healthy lifespan, let’s just say they’ve backed up those statements. Pancakes, eggs, bacon, and OJ — it’s staple, hearty stuff, but it’s a guarantee.
Inside the Park (Chow Town North & South)
Edzo’s Burger Shop – If the line’s too long at Kuma’s (it will be, but it’s still probably short of the restaurant’s typical two-hour wait), Edzo’s offers both that local flavor and one hell of a greasy burger. These patties are Northwestern fans making the trek down from Evanston, so be sure to scream “Go Cats!” as you walk away. (Located in Chow Town South)
Grahamwich – “Oh, it’s a play on Graham Elliot’s name.” Yes, it’s also his offshoot sandwich shop, which sports the city’s definitive pulled pork sandwich. No idea if it’ll be at Grant Park yet, but his other stuff is predictably great, too. Also, it’s something you can’t get anywhere other than Chitown. (Located in Chow Town South)
Kamehachi – This staple Chicago restaurant (since 1967, suckas) is bringing their critically-acclaimed sushi to Lollapalooza. On paper, that sounds like a bad idea at a music festival, but on-the-spot you might think otherwise. It could be the light alternative to the more meaty opportunities. (Located in Chow Town North)
Kuma’s Corner – We didn’t name it one of our top food choices at a music festival for nothing. Odds are you won’t make it to the actual Chicago landmark over the weekend, so take the ten-15 minutes out of your schedule and grab a burger. Warning: It’s probably best to save this for dinner; that is, unless you’re looking to nap near the BMI Stage. (Located in Chow Town North)
Late-Night Eats
Big Star – 1531 N. Damen Ave. - People always say stupid shit like, “These are the best tacos in the city” or “The guac is unreal, bro.” But avoiding these cliche statements leaves us short on words to describe this Wicker Park hallmark. It’s unlikely you’ll get a table, unless you get lucky and snag something on the patio, but it’s okay: They have a take-out window on the side with accompanying picnic tables nearby. Our advice? Don’t leave without eating their Tacos al Pastor, and if you’re really feeling adventurous, go for their Sonoran Hot Dog — the dog’s wrapped in bacon, for Christ’s sake. Open til 2 am Sun-Fri and 3 am on Sat.
Buddy Guy’s Legends- 700 S. Wabash Ave. – It’s a blues club from the late ’80s and admittedly a tourist trap of sorts, but there’s something special about the joint. With blues pounding the stage seven nights a week, Southern cajun cooking served ’til midnight, and a close proximity to Grant Park, it just might be your perfect refuge. Open til 2 am on Fri and Sun and 3 am on Sat.
Pick Me Up Cafe - 3408 N. Clark St. - If you’re headed back Northside, the Pick Me Up has you covered for that midnight snack. Vegan or meat, beer or espresso, and open all night, the place has something for everyone in your group (not to mention the people-watching afforded by its large windows and drunken neighbors). Also, Pick Me Up is a particular favorite of our staff — in fact, Michael Roffman calls their Garlicious Breast his favorite sandwich of all time– so, if you see us, say hello! Open 24-7-365.
The Purple Pig - 500 N. Michigan Ave. – What exactly is Modern European? Lots of cheeses, meats, and wines, apparently. This Magnificent Mile staple is the product of a supergroup of chefs, specifically Scott Harris (of Mia Francesca), Tony Mantuano (of Spiaggia), and Jimmy Bannos and Jimmy Bannos Jr (of Heaven on Seven). It’s on the pricier side, naturally, but nothing screams victory like an ol’ milk braised pork shoulder, some potatoes, and a jug of wine after sweating through Black Sabbath. Seriously. Open til 2 am on Fri and Sat, and until 12 am on Sun.
Flo and Santos – 1310 S. Wabash Ave. – Polish and Italians unite! This nearby pub brandishes a menu fit for Bill Swerski’s Super Fans. Greasy stuff like beer-battered onion rings, pierogis, kielbasa sausages, and, yes, Tavern-style pizza tease anyone’s inner glutton. They have salads, too, but gimme a break.
“I wouldn’t miss…”
Friday
Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs – 2:00 p.m. at Perry’s Stage - On the heels of his debut album, Trouble, Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaurs brings his mouthful of a moniker to Lolla. TEED plays EDM, but it’s thoughtful, spacey, and complex, and features refreshingly few laser sound effects. A perfect gateway act for your friends who think they “hate” electronic.
The Afghan Whigs – 4:15 p.m. at Red Bull Soundstage – One of Cleveland’s finest is back and Greg Dulli sounds (and looks) better than ever. With rave reviews from the few reunion gigs they’ve actually played, it would appear that The Afghan Whigs are back in top form. It’s all sorts of rare, especially since for years Dulli claimed the band would never reform.
Black Sabbath – 8:05 p.m. at Bud Light Stage – It’s their only American concert in 2012 and it’s Ozzy Osbourne. Reunions of this caliber are a must-see in our book.
Saturday
Doomtree – 12:45 p.m. at Red Bull Soundstage – This Minneapolis collective sports some of the most dynamic and eclectic hip-hop you’ll find on the scene. Currently supporting last year’s critically-acclaimed sophomore album, No Kings, P.O.S., Dessa, and Sims should lead one hell of an opener to what will be one long, tiring Saturday in Grant Park. Think of this set as your bowl of Wheaties.
Bloc Party – 7:00 p.m. at Sony Stage – Their highly anticipated fourth studio album, Four, doesn’t hit stores until the end of the month (August 21st via Frenchkiss Records), so Lollapalooza should be a solid preview for diehard fans. It’s one of their first American dates since returning, so yeah, it doesn’t get fresher than that.
Frank Ocean – 8:45 p.m. at Google Play Stage - After his Channel Orange earned CoS’s coveted top star, what’s next for Frank Ocean? He’s going to Lolla, and he’s playing a headlining spot, no less. His star is rising faster than the temperature in Chicago—catch him live while he’s still savoring the trip.
Sunday
Bowerbirds – 12:00 p.m. at Sony Stage - In the land of festivals, noon feels more like 8:00 a.m.. Reward yourself for being up so early with some warm, dreamy folk rock from Bowerbirds. They’ve got John Darnielle’s stamp of approval—what more do you need to know?
Sigur Rós - 4:00 p.m. at Red Bull Soundstage - Stave off the heat with a blast of groovy Icelandic chill from spacey ambient rockers Sigur Ros. Are there quieter, more intimate venues better suited to hearing tracks from 2012’s Valtari performed live? Probably. But they’re going to sound pretty unreal nestled under the skyline, too.
At The Drive-In – 6:00 p.m. at Red Bull Soundstage – With no dates on the horizon, new releases by each of their respective outside projects circulating, and a lack of any indication that they’re a band again, you might want to catch this before they go their separate ways once more.
“We’re not finished yet.”
Aftershows
Since so many after shows have been sold out for months, we decided to collate the ones that still have tickets remaining. Granted, it’s hard to rival Frank Ocean at the Metro or the highly-anticipated debut of Divine Fits at Schubas, but these should keep the nights alive in a stylish fashion.
Thursday, August 2nd
Twin Shadow, Neon Indian, Passion Pit (DJ Set) at Logan Square Auditorium – RSVP via FILTER Magazine.
Totally Enormous Dinosaurs (DJ Set) at Berlin – $10 via TicketWeb.
Friday, August 3rd
JEFF the Brotherhood, Growlers at Subterranean – $15 via TicketWeb.
Grimes, The Big Pink, thenewno2 at Logan Square Auditorium – RSVP via FILTER Magazine.
Saturday, August 4th
White Rabbits, Dum Dum Girls, and Oberhofer at Cubby Bear – $18 via TicketWeb.
Ana Sia, Scuba at Metro’s Smart Bar – $15 via eTix.
Late Night Hangouts
Berlin – 954 W. Belmont Ave. - This place is a mess in the best possible way. It’s technically a gay club, but in reality it’s more of an “everybody dance and drink Red Bull” sort of thing, and it often has theme nights. Bonus: Right next to the Belmont L station.
B.L.U.E.S. - 2519 N. Halsted St. – This doted sliver of Chicago history is a must-see for music enthusiasts. It’s not so much revered for its historical names, but for its widely sought intimacy. As their website reads, “The set-up is such that no matter where you sit, you’re always in the middle of the action.” Very true, but this also means it’s relatively difficult to grab a chair, so don’t be pissy if you can’t get in.
The Continental – 2801 W. Chicago Ave. - Odds are you won’t be in Humboldt Park, but if you do snake your way through there, check out this dive bar. It’s a little sketch, but the bartenders are amicable, the vibe’s hip, and the people are cool in that professional sense. It’s a solid place to brag about if you’re into bragging about things.
Emporium Arcade Bar – 1366 N. Milwaukee Ave. - Vintage games, rare beers, and vintage games. There’s nothing more exciting than shutting your brain off after eight to ten grueling hours walking around Grant Park. Rest assured, they have NBA Jam, The Simpsons, and Tron, but beware, it can get a little muggy in there. Small price to pay to win it all, though.
The Flat Iron – 1565 N. Milwaukee Ave. - Probably the only bar in Wicker Park that has a painting of Vigo the Carpathian. And yes, he still looks like he lost his kitten.
The Gingerman Tavern - 3740 N. Clark St. - Dark and comfy, the Gingerman is a surprisingly spacious hideaway in Wrigleyville that features a well-stocked jukebox, pool tables, and lots of dark corners for nursing your brew. A nice place to relax if you’re all “scened” out.
Hungry Brain – 2319 W. Belmont Ave. - The outside looks like an abandoned storefront, but the inside is a lost Brooklyn bar. With Christmas lights everywhere, cracked vintage sofas and chairs, and a stellar jukebox, this distant bar will turn the volume down from 11 to a healthy three. Bring cash, though.
The Long Room – 1612 W. Irving Park Rd. - They really chose the right name with this one. Located on Irving Park, this sliver of a room has a choice patio (a savior when the bar’s at its peak hours), a slightly sketch-yet-very-chill back area, and good vibes all around. They play good music, too, and it’s near Diner Grill, where they’ll make penis-shaped pancakes. No lie.
Ravens – 2326 N. Clark St. - You’ve gotta love this Lincoln Park hole-in-the-wall for being one of the only real dive bars in one of the yuppiest neighborhoods of Chicago, second only to Andersonville. Free popcorn, ample outdoor space, and hilarious people-watching (it’s near DePaul University) make for a great comedown. It helps that it’s a 4 am bar, too.
